The Rome Edit: A Local's Guide to Eating and Drinking
10 spots you can’t miss on your next visit to the Eternal City
Rome is a city that exists for me in only the faintest lines of my memory. The first and only time I’ve ever been was in June of my thirteenth year, a few weeks after finishing seventh grade. My family had decided to take a trip to Italy, beginning in the countryside, followed by a few days along the coast, and ending back in the capital before our flight home to Boston.
The trip was, for me, a series of firsts: the first time I tasted wine, taking one long sip of rich, inky Chianti from a fishbowl-shaped bistro glass while my parents weren’t looking; the first time I ate pizza cut to order with kitchen shears from a great rectangular slab of dough and cheese; the first cooking class I ever took, taught by a woman named Julieta in her home in Tuscany. It was my first time traveling out of the country, and my first confrontation with the rituals of food and wine in the places they originate.
It was hardly an awakening. In fact, it all feels now like some kind of dream. And I suppose remains that way still — a place I dream of returning to with all of my senses and with the sensibility of local.
Alice Beltri is a brand strategist based in Rome with a deep and intimate understanding of the city. As the marketing and communications manager of Casa Monti and the founder of HumanWonder Studio, Alice’s work centers itself on seeking beauty and crafting connection in the everyday. Which makes her perspective on the city’s food and wine scene uniquely wonderful. Here she shares her favorite places across the city that intersect history, design, culture, cuisine, and community: 10 places in Rome to eat and drink including insider tips on when to visit, the best seat in the house and what to order when you get there.
Casa Monti Roma Restaurant — this charming boutique hotel is also called “the home of the artist”. Set in the local Monti neighborhood, it offers 36 artsy-chic rooms, rooftop bar, spa and restaurant designed by Laura Gonzalez. If you’re looking for a special occasion dinner, very recommended especially during spring /summer where you can sit on the outside terrace.
p.s. also very worth trying a cocktail at the rooftop bar, Mark is the best.
the ktichen of il cortile, founded in 1929 Ristorante il Cortile - this is one of my favorite (Monteverde Vecchio) neighborhood restaurants, we always go there with family and friends especially when we’re craving a great traditional Sunday lunch. Love the outdoor seating where you can catch some Roman sun. To order, you can’t miss: insalata di carciofi con grana, pici al ragù bianco di vitello e maiale, and fragoline di bosco con zucchero or gelato alla crema.
p.s. They have gelato from Tony (one of the best ice creams in Roma, according to me)Ristorante Piperno - one of the best traditional Roman restaurants, located in Rome’s historic Jewish Quarter. It’s a family run trattoria with an elegant ambience and decor (I love the green walls and vintage chandeliers), where the food is delicious.
p.s. If it’s good weather, ask for a table outside, seating in that little piazza is too dreamy.
the dining room at nino Nino Restaurant - a true classic, not much has changed since it was founded in 1935. With old school dark wood interiors and stained wall, it’s tucked away in the heart of the city center (right next to the Spanish steps). The best Carciofo alla Romana ever eaten but they serve classic Tuscan dishes as well and the wine selection is great. It is now very trendy with tourists and locals alike.
Piatto Romano - authentic and relaxed trattoria in Testaccio, locals love it. They are popular for their wide selection of fresh vegetables which are always cooked to perfection. You’ll never want to leave the table, don’t skip the dessert.
What to order: all vegetables (ask them for suggestions), a classic pasta or petto di vitello alla fornara.
pasta at rocco Rocco Ristorante - a family run Roman trattoria but with a twist on local cuisine, they offer a very cozy and intimate atmosphere and a daily changing menu (written on a chalkboard, of course). I love their homemade french fries but don’t skip the dessert because the tiramisu is amazing.
Giggetto Ristorante - a classic Roman trattoria in the heart of the jewish quarters, with a lot of history. They’re best known for their artichokes—especially the fried ones. Request to be seated in the back garden, it is the perfect spot for a long, group lunch.
Marzapane - The place to go if you’re looking for the best brunch (available everyday!) spot in Roma. A new-wave bakery, their interiors are minimalistic (almost Nordic in style) and their pastries served fresh daily. One of the few spots in town where you can get an iced matcha if you so choose.
the bar at stecca Stecca - a new addition to the Garbatella neighborhood—a traditionally Roman area that contrasts very well with the Nordic-minimalist blonde-wood aesthetic of the restaurant. They do offer Roman fare but with a contemporary twist on traditional flavors. Best for: conviviality, plates to share and good wine. Don’t miss: the Stecca cake.
p.s. the owner and the staff are very kind
the dining room at la matriciana La Matriciana dal 1870 - one of the most iconic roman restaurants, it is an old-school institution popular for their Bucatini alla Matriciana. (If you order more than 1 portion they serve it in very aesthetic silver serving plates). Unsurprisingly, the room dining room decor is beautiful as well.
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