What They're Drinking at: Babysips
owner zoe clifton of the new lower east side wine bar shares what she's loving right now
Babysips is one of Lower Manhattan’s newest wine bars, but its retro interiors and industry-veteran owners give it an edge that defies its youth. With eclectic interiors to match its ‘come one, come all’ ethos–sea-foam green walls, a red-lacquered bar, yellow tiled tables and this very epic globe light chandelier –Babysips operates out of a small, semi-underground space on Rivington. Opened in late spring, it brings an energy to the Lower East Side that had been nearly lost–cool but unpretentious, sophisticated but modern, seasonal but with a perennial warmth.
Co-owner Zoe Clifton, met her partner David Wilson while the two were working back of house at Cosme. They pulled inspiration from this shared history, as well as time they’ve spent abroad in Spain and Brazil when creating their own spot. Self-decidedly a “working glass wine bar,” you’ll find Zoe and David there slinging thoughtful food and natural wines at affordable prices Wednesday through Sunday. Zoe shares the wines she’s loving right now below—definitely stop by Babysips for these pours and more.
2023 La RuraL Sumoll, Sumoll
La Rural is a project from brothers Andreu Padró and Xavi Padró, who started making wine together in 2018. Their project is organic certified and they use minimal intervention in the cellar, fermenting primarily in stainless steel. This 100% Sumoll is bright and juicy, with notes of strawberries and cherry, with a vibrance matched by the young and energetic producers.
2021 François Saint-Lô Les Pouches Maceration, Chenin Blanc
A truly handmade project from a young legend-in-the-making, Francois Saint-Lô traveled the world before settling in Anjou to launch his own winery, where he uses manual techniques and traditional methods to create the highest quality wines. This Chenin is a shining example of his work. Undergoing a short period of maceration, it bridges white and orange wine, brightness and richness, minerality and fruit. Delicious with Babysip’s seasonal octopus salad.
2021 Les Cigales dans la Fourmilière Le Petite Pepée, Grenache Noir
Translating to ‘the cicada and the ant,’ this domaine based in the Languedoc pays homage to the ancient fable about finding the balance between one who works hard and fast and one who goes slow and enjoys life. Husband-wife duo Julie Brosselin and Ivo Ferreira aim to bring both energies to their wines. This wine embodies this tension, a bland de noir from directly pressed Grenache Noir, it’s complex, with notes of hazelnut and almond, and gentle acidity. It opens up wonderfully if you give it a bit of time, which is a great excuse to linger in the cozy conviviality of Babysips.
2022 Clos du Tue-Boeuf “Tant Qu’on Peut” Cheverny Rouge, Pinot Noir
Clos du Tue-Boeuf has become synonymous with natural wine from the Loire Valley. Launched in the 1990s by brothers Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat, the pair took over their grandfather’s 16-hectare estate on the edge of Cheverny and immediately began converting the vineyards to organic farming and making wines with minimal intervention. Now led by Thierry’s daughters, Zoé and Louise, much has stayed the same—though not without efforts from the next generation to make their own mark. This wine is very much a new school wine, vinified in the domaine’s traditional style, without additives and with a long elevage. It has Clos Du Tue-Boeuf’s signature acidity as well, zippy and a bit unwieldy, balanced with notes of dark fruits and licorice. Delicious as an aperitif, or for starting what will inevitably be a long evening of drinking and eating.
2023 Matthieu Barret Pas Cale, Pinot Noir
A stunning Rhône Pinot Noir, which drinks as bright and clean as any red from Burgundy, perhaps because it’s made from grapes grown on 35-year-old vines belonging to the very legendary Philippe Pacalet in the Côte de Beaune. Vinified in Barret’s classic, experimental style, using a blend of whole cluster carbonic maceration followed by 3 weeks of maceration, the result is wine that is full of tension, lean but structured, silky, and with gentle tannins that promise to develop in time. A great summer red that is wonderful when slightly chilled.